Author Topic: Zeldas 55ltr tank log. (Read 9241 times)

ClothahumpDisabled · « **Reply #30 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:03:11 am »

Normal part of the cycle, while you are at it top the tank up to the proper level.

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zelda1982 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:06:20 am »

4ppm is the proper level am using so dont need to add any ammonia do I?

ClothahumpDisabled · « **Reply #32 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:08:44 am »

No, 4ppm is fine.

zelda1982 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:10:16 am »

Thanks. Its so frustrating waiting for it to cycle, and i'm only onto day 4 lol.

ClothahumpDisabled · « **Reply #34 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:16:40 am »

It gives you plenty of time to read up on fish species, plants, etc.

zelda1982 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 30, 2012, 07:33:13 am »

Todays results:
PH 7.0
Ammonia 2ppm
Nitrite 1.0
Nitrate 5.0
Topped the Ammonia back to 4ppm.

jackiemcg34 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 30, 2012, 05:33:42 pm »

maybe he meant to top the tank up with water? its not quite full yet or are you leaving it at that level?

zelda1982 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 30, 2012, 06:34:16 pm »

I think it will be staying like that as then it gives the water coming out of the filter a drop to make a bit more aeriation .(sp).

Vale! · « **Reply #38 on:** April 30, 2012, 08:46:02 pm »

re: Buffers in mains water

Quote from: jackiemcg34 on April 26, 2012, 08:56:03 pm

Vale, mine does for one ...

I am fairly sure of my ground when it comes to English water companies and their use - or rather, non-use! - of mains water buffers, but your statement gave me pause because I wasn't so sure about Scottishland! So (of course) I asked them and the delay here has been as a result of my awaiting their reply. Here it is from Mr. Fraser Reid, Team Manager Public Health :

"Scottish water adjusts the pH of water during treatment to ensure optimum conditions for coagulation (the process used in water treatment). No buffers are added."

The word 'coagulation' had me rushing to Google in a state of mild panic. It turns out that coagulation usually involves the introduction of electrolytes (i.e. particles with an electrical charge) ; these bind with floating bits and bobs in the water that have an opposite electrical charge. They neutralise each other and the end result is that they coagulate so that they are more easily removed from the water - via mechanical filtration I suppose.

Every day's a school day!

jackiemcg34 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 30, 2012, 08:52:40 pm »

thanks Vale

so what do I call my water pH difference then after letting it stand for the 24 hours if its not a buffer?

sorry to jump in this thread with this zelda, hope you don't mind

Vale! · « **Reply #40 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:52:33 pm »

Yes - sorry, Zelda!

Jackie - the pH change is (I'm 99% sure of this) a function of the exchange of carbon dioxide between mains water and the atmosphere as pressure is released at our taps. And the way (I think!) I understand it goes something like this ...

Hard water, with a high carbonate content, 'holds' a lot of carbon dioxide under mains pressure. When this is released, CO2 'outgasses' to the atmosphere until the pressure of dissolved CO2 equals its pressure in the air. As a result, the pH rises.

Conversely, soft water - such as yours - has a very low carbonate content and it 'holds' very little CO2 in solution under mains pressure. When it's released to the outside world it finds that the air actually has a greater concentration and CO2 'ingasses' to dissolve in the water - again to equalise the pressures of the gas. As a result of that, the pH falls until that gaseous equilibrium is reached. It's the same effect as you'd find if you injected CO2 into your aquarium.

I wish I had a physical chemist in my pocket to confirm or to 'rubbish' the above and/or to explain it better! As to what you'd neatly call it ... um ... I don't really know, sorry!

(And I only popped in to the forum to try to verify what LFS's charge for RO water!)

jackiemcg34 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:59:48 pm »

thanks Vale, I appreciate your time and explanation, won't be using the buffering word then again about my lovely water, sorry if I confused or used it wrong then, I was misled a bit along the way

zelda1982 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 01, 2012, 07:21:37 am »

You's just talk amongst yourselves

Todays results PH 7.0
Ammonia 4ppm
Nitrite 2-5ppm (can't tell the difference, and i put an extra drop in by mistake if that makes a difference?)
Nitrate 10-20ppm (again can't tell difference)

Does this seem to be going to schedule? Didn't think i would be getting nitrates for a good few weeks

zelda1982 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 01, 2012, 04:22:01 pm »

As i am going away next week, do you think it would be a good idea to put a small amount of fish food in the tank (in a stocking) to stop the bacteria from starving? I'm away for 1 week. And also how much should i put in?

zelda1982 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 03, 2012, 11:17:17 am »

Forgot to add yesterdays...
PH 6.8 Ammonia 2ppm Nitrite 2-5ppm Nitrate 10-20ppm
todays
PH 6.4 Ammonia 2ppm Nitrite 2-5ppm Nitrate 5ppm

Any reason why PH would be going down? I've not done anything to change it.

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Author Topic: Zeldas 55ltr tank log. (Read 9241 times)